SURFING
Welcome to my website for everything you need to know about surfing.
Surfing is a surface water sport in which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer, rides on the forward or deep face of a moving wave, which is usually carrying the surfer towards the shore.
you don't need much equipment. you need a nice little smart-looking board, an expensive wetsuit, and all the accessories.
For centuries, surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture. Surfing may have first been observed by British explorers at Tahiti in 1767. In 1975, professional contests started. That year Margo Oberg became the first female professional surfer.
Type 1 jetty
This type of jetty is significantly longer than the surf zone width and the waves break at the shore end of the jetty. Is sediment accumulation in a wedge formation on the jetty. These waves are large and increase in size as they pass over the sediment wedge formation.Type 2 jetty
A type 2 jetty occurs in an ebb tidal delta, a delta transitioning between high and low tide. This area has shallow water, refraction, and a distinctive seabed shapes that creates large wave heights.Type 3 jetty
Is in an ebb tidal area with an unchanging seabed that has naturally created waves.
